1814 MAGAZINE, USA

Photographs by Cathleen Naundorf from her book Women of a Singular Beauty.

Dear Karl,

I met you the first time in 1997, when you invited me to your home on the Rue de l’Université in Paris. I remember that day very well. It was a sunny April day, I was passing through the vast blue wooden door which opened to the courtyard of your beautiful 18th century Hotel Particular called Pozzo di Borgo.

I was 25 years old and you called me “Madame Horst”. Horst P. Horst, legendary photographer and luckily my mentor, had sent me from New York to Paris in order to guide a TV crew who was planning a film about his life.

I was waiting for your arrival… it took some hours… but in this time I discovered YOUR photostudio! Large format cameras, Polaroids, saltprints…

Your interview was very exciting! You spoke fast with your hanseatic accent about Chanel, the fashion industry, culture, art, and about your passion for photography.

Since that time I have worked with you, your collections, and the House of Chanel. Over the years you have inspired me so much. Now you are gone, but you leave me with a great memories and happiness that I was able to work with one of the finest masters of fashion… the last “Kaiser.”

I still hear you calling… “Madame Horst!”

Karl, I remember you telling me, that you had found by chance Coco Chanel’s missing chair at an auction in Monaco and you bought it to bring it back to her apartment at Rue Cambon.

Coco Chanel didn’t like being photographed, to feel comfortable, Horst decided to photograph her in her chair in his studio in 1937. She loved the pictures so much that she ordered a lot of prints from each sitting.

In 2008 I photographed the same chair and a model in a Coco Chanel style to pay homage to my mentor who introduced me to you and the House of Chanel.

Eifel Tower, shopping center, beach, or airport… it all happened under the roof of the Grand Palais. Karl, you always think big and international.

This iconic monument of Paris, located at the Champs Elysee and built for the Exposition Universelle 1900, is a symbol of transparency and modernity.

In 2010 I photographed your Haute Couture Spring Collection… one of the most beautiful ones. Classy, elegant, and inspired by the 1920’s… Very Coco Chanel. I had the Grand Palais for myself alone for the shoot and it was just heaven.

Imagine my surprise, when CHANEL told me that the entire collection was gone to Cannes for the film festival and there were only three dresses left that I could have… Who cares… I did a series of three dresses in the Grand Palais and the result was stunning.

Who does not know the mirrored staircase at rue Cambon? It has been photographed thousands of times. CHANEL told me afterwards that it had never been photographed in that way, where you could see the metal structure.

I knew that you admired German Expressionism as I do… Murnau’s films, The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari and Nosferatu. Your winter 2007 / 2008 Haute Couture collection was perfect to recreate the powerful mood of this movement.